Francois Peron National Park

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Perth to Exmouth

The perfect road trip along Western Australia's Coral Coast

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The perfect Perth to Exmouth itinerary

Western Australia’s Coral Coast is made for road trips, a seemingly endless stretch of coastline where red gorges, empty beaches and tiny fishing towns eventually give way to one of the most incredible marine environments in the world: Ningaloo Reef. This Perth to Exmouth itinerary follows the coast north through the Pinnacles, Kalbarri National Park and the World Heritage-listed Shark Bay, before reaching Coral Bay and Cape Range National Park. Along the way you’ll camp behind sand dunes, drive remote 4WD tracks, reef snorkel straight from the beach and see everything from sea lions and reef sharks to dugongs, manta rays and, if you time it right, whale sharks. The direct route between Perth and Exmouth is around 1,250km, but this is definitely not a road trip you want to rush. With roughly two weeks, you’ll have enough time to explore the main highlights while still leaving a few afternoons for doing absolutely nothing beside the ocean.

How much time do you meed for a Perth to Exmouth itinerary?

Around 10 to 14 days one way, 16 if doing a return trip from Perth. The direct drive is roughly 1,250km and just under 13 hours behind the wheel, this is not a trip you want to rush. Once you factor in Shark Bay, Francois Peron and the coastal detours, you’ll cover significantly more than ~2,000km going north. With roughly two weeks you’ll have enough time to hit the main highlights while still leaving a few afternoons for doing absolutely nothing beside the ocean.

When is the best time to do the Perth to Exmouth itinerary?

 

April to July is the sweet spot: cooler temperatures for hiking in Kalbarri and Cape Range, and the main whale shark season underway at Ningaloo. July–October is also beautiful and adds migrating humpback whales to the mix. Summer can be extremely hot, particularly in the inland gorges, with many parks closed due to severe weather, so it’s the season to avoid if you can.

Getting to Exmouth

We think the best option is to travel one way from Perth to Exmouth, slowly building towards Ningaloo before flying home from Learmonth rather than driving all the way down again. One-way rentals do usually come with a relocation fee, so if you have more time, returning the vehicle to Perth can save a fair bit.

For this itinerary, we recommend a high-clearance 4WD, as some of the best campsites and sections around Francois Peron and the Ningaloo Coast are 4WD-only (don’t worry if you’re new to this, the tracks on this itinerary are not that difficult). Finding companies that allow a one-way Perth to Exmouth rental can be surprisingly tricky, so we’ve put together a separate guide comparing the best one-way 4WD rental options from Perth to Exmouth, including the companies we considered and the one we eventually used.

The Route

Below you’ll find the route for our Perth to Exmouth road trip, travelling north along the Coral Coast Highway. From Perth, the journey follows Indian Ocean Drive past Lancelin and the Pinnacles to Jurien Bay, before continuing through Geraldton and Kalbarri. From there, you’ll turn west into the Shark Bay peninsula to explore Denham and Francois Peron National Park, then return to the highway and continue north through Carnarvon and Quobba. The final stretch takes you into Coral Bay and along the Ningaloo Coast before finishing in Exmouth and Cape Range National Park. You can easily drive the itinerary in the opposite direction, but we loved travelling north because every few days the scenery became a little more remote and tropical, slowly building towards Ningaloo Reef the real highlight of the trip.

Perth to Exmouth itinerary

Perth

St George's Cathedral
St George's Cathedral
Stirling Gardens
Stirling Gardens

Perth is a lovely city and deserves more than simply landing, collecting your vehicle and immediately driving north. If you’ve never visited before, spend two or three days around Perth exploring the city centre, Kings Park and Botanic Garden, the beautiful old churches and gardens around St George’s Terrace, and the beaches stretching from Cottesloe to Scarborough. There’s also an excellent food and coffee scene, and Rottnest Island makes an easy day trip for cycling between beaches, snorkelling and meeting the island’s famous quokkas. We cover Perth, Fremantle and Rottnest in much more detail in our Perth to Esperance itinerary.

Perth is also where you’ll most likely pick up your vehicle and do the first big grocery shop. It’s worth stocking up properly here, particularly on camping gear, drinking water and anything specific you know you’ll want later in the trip. The next big supermarket stops we relied on were Geraldton and Carnarvon which are noticeably more expensive

Cervantes & Jurien Bay

Lobster Shack Cervantes
Lobster Shack Cervantes
Sunset at Sandy Cape
Sunset at Sandy Cape

From Perth, the first section north follows Indian Ocean Drive toward Cervantes and Jurien Bay. If you have time, make a quick detour to the huge white Lancelin Sand Dunes, before continuing to Nambung National Park and the Pinnacles Desert. Thousands of limestone pillars rise from the yellow sand here, and you can drive the scenic loop straight through the desert, making it an easy first stop without losing half the day. Cervantes is just beyond the national park and is famous for Western Rock Lobster. We stopped at the Lobster Shack for some proper WA-style crayfish before continuing north towards Jurien Bay.

For your first night, Sandy Cape Recreation Park is hard to beat. The campground sits directly behind the dunes around a sheltered bay. We especially loved site 92, in the 2WD section. A more private spot only a few steps over the dunes to watch your first Indian Ocean sunset of the trip. If you have time the next morning, swimming with Australian sea lions in Jurien Bay is an amazing experience. Tours depart from Jurien Bay throughout the year, taking you out into the marine park where wild sea lions often swim and play around you. 

Geraldton and Hutt Lagoon

Pink Lake Hutt Lagoon Perth to Exmouth itinerary
Hutt Lagoon
Lucky Bay Kalbarri - Perth to Exmouth itinerary
Lucky Bay Camp Kalbarri

From Jurien Bay, it’s roughly four hours to Kalbarri, but there are some stops along the way to easily stretch the journey over most of the day. Geraldton is the main town on this section and a convenient place to refuel, grab a coffee and restock groceries. Just over an hour north of Gero lies Hutt Lagoon, the famous Pink Lake beside Port Gregory. The colour comes from the salt-loving algae Dunaliella salina, which can turn the water different shades of pink, red and purple depending on conditions. The lake is particularly vibrant around the middle of the day when the sun is high, and we found the eastern side around the road and viewpoints gave some of the nicest contrasts between the pink water and the surrounding landscape.

If you have a 4WD, Lucky Bay is an incredible place to spend the night just 30 minutes south of Kalbarri. You can camp behind the dunes or take your 4WD onto the beach, and even in a busy period we found plenty of space. Access is via Balline Road, around 5km from the main road to the campground. Camping currently costs $15 per vehicle per night as of June 2026, is first come first served.

If you’re travelling in a 2WD or simply craving a hot shower, Murchison House Station just outside Kalbarri is a comfortable alternative and a great base for exploring the national park the next day. There is no normal campground inside Kalbarri National Park itself, so staying in or around town is the easiest option.

Kalbarri National Park

Nature's Window Kalbarri
Nature's Window Kalbarri
Loop Trail Kalbarri
Loop Trail Kalbarri

Kalbarri is the first major highlight of the road trip, a small coastal town sitting where the Murchison River reaches the Indian Ocean and the main base for exploring Kalbarri National Park. There is the town section to explore and the national park. Near town, Red Bluff has beautiful views along the coastal cliffs and is a great place to watch for migrating humpbacks in season, while Blue Holes and the river foreshore are nice places to relax after a day of hiking. If you are in town in the morning, local volunteers feed the resident pelicans on the foreshore at 8:45am every day.

The main inland section of Kalbarri National Park is around half an hour from town. Start at the Kalbarri Skywalk, where two platforms extend over the Murchison River Gorge, before continuing to Nature’s Window, one of the park’s most recognisable views. From here begins our favourite hike in Kalbarri, The Loop Trail, a 9km circuit that follows the rim before descending into the gorge and running alongside the Murchison River beneath enormous sandstone walls. Allow 2-3 hours and carry plenty of water, especially outside the cooler winter months.

Swim at Z bend Kalbarri
Swim at Z bend Kalbarri
Z Bend Kalbarri
Z Bend Kalbarri

Another beautiful walk is the Z Bend River Trail. The main lookout is reached via a short 600m trail, but we recommend continuing down into the gorge toward the river. It’s a ~1-2h return hike on a one-way trail that descends between rock walls before opening up into the gorge where you can take a relaxing swim in the Murchison river. 

Francois Peron National Park

 From Kalbarri, the highway turns north before eventually branching west toward the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. One of the first stops is Hamelin Pool, famous for its ancient stromatolites. The main viewing boardwalk was damaged by Cyclone Seroja and has been closed for years so we wouldn’t consider it essential if you’re short on time. A little further along is Shell Beach, where the water is incredibly clear and the shoreline is made entirely from billions of tiny white shells piled several metres deep.  Keep your eyes on the water here, as we spotted a huge shovelnose ray cruising right through the shallows.

Eagle Bluff lagoon Campground
Eagle Bluff lagoon Camp
Shell Beach Shark Bay
Shell Beach

Continue toward Eagle Bluff, where an elevated boardwalk gives you a much better chance of spotting wildlife in the clear water below, including rays, sharks, turtles and occasionally dugongs. We spent the night at Eagle Bluff Lagoon Campground, one of our top three campsites of the entire trip. The next morning, continue to Denham, the main town where you can top up fuel, water and food before heading into Francois Peron National Park.

Francois Peron National Park
Francois Peron National Park
Skipjack Point
Skipjack Point

If you’ve rented a 4WD, Francois Peron National Park is where the road trip really starts to feel adventurous. The peninsula is a spectacular mix of red sand dunes, white beaches and turquoise water, and we recommend spending two nights inside the park to explore it at a relaxed pace, but with 1 night you’ll be able to visit the highlights.

On your first day, drive all the way to Skipjack Point and Cape Peron at the northern end of the peninsula. Skipjack Point has elevated viewing platforms overlooking the marine park, and the water is so clear that you can often pick out sharks, rays, dolphins, turtles and dugongs from above. From here, walk the Wanamalu Trail, a beautiful 3.6km return trail along the dune ridge between Skipjack Point and Cape Peron. We have written a dedicated guide to Francois Peron National Park, which you can find here.

Carnarvon & Quobba

There is quite literally nothing between Denham and Carnarvon, so put on a good playlist and enjoy the 4h outback driving experience. Carnarvon is the main regional centre for the Gascoyne and the last big supermarket stop before reaching Exmouth. If you’re looking for coffee or lunch, 6701 Waterfront Cafe is a great option. If you have extra time, there are plantations and farm shops around Carnarvon, but on a two-week itinerary we’d prioritise getting back to the coast.

Humpback Whale at Quobba Blowholes
Humpback Whale at Quobba
The Aquarium
The Aquarium

Around 75km north of Carnarvon is Point Quobba and the famous Blowholes, where ocean swell is forced through narrow gaps in the rock and shoots high into the air. During humpback season, keep watching beyond the rocks as whales regularly migrate along this coastline. The real surprise for us was The Aquarium, a naturally protected lagoon just down the coast from the blowholes. We weren’t expecting much, but the snorkelling was fantastic, colourful coral spared from bleeching and plenty of tropical fish. Try to visit around high tide, when there’s more water over the reef. You can camp nearby at the Blowholes Reserve which is right next to the aquarium. Alternatively, drive a little further north to Quobba Station, where the camping still feels remote but you get the luxury of proper toilets and hot showers, very welcome after a few remote nights around Francois Peron.

Coral Bay & Warroora Coast

From Quobba, continue north to Coral Bay, your first real taste of the Ningaloo Coast. You might be tempted to continue north along the remote coastal track through Gnaraloo and Warroora instead of returning to the highway. It looks like an obvious shortcut on the map, but the Warroora–Gnaraloo section is a challenging 4WD track and conditions can change considerably, especially after weather events. If you’re considering it, allow 4-6h of time, make sure your rental company permits the route and check the latest Shire of Carnarvon road report before setting off.

Bill's Bay
Bill's Bay
Five Fingers Reef
Five Fingers Reef

Coral Bay itself is tiny, essentially a few caravan parks, shops and cafés wrapped around beautiful Bill’s Bay. The reef begins almost straight off the beach, making it one of the easiest places in Australia to simply grab a mask and swim out towards coral gardens. Between October and March, you can walk around 20 minutes north along Bill’s Bay to see gatherings of dozens of reef sharks cruising through the shallow water. Manta ray swim tours run from Coral Bay throughout the year, whale shark tours generally operate from March to June, and humpback whale experiences run during the winter migration.

Sandy Point Campground
Sandy Point Campground
Dune track to 5 Fingers
Dune track to 5 Fingers

If you have a 4WD, make sure to explore beyond town. We especially loved driving south onto the Warroora Coast, where the campsites feel much more remote than Coral Bay itself. Sandy Point was one of our favourites, a tiny campground right on the water where it felt like we had the coastline almost to ourselves. 14 Mile is larger but more conveniently located for getting back into Coral Bay, particularly if you have an early tour the next morning. Driving from from 14 Mile toward Five Fingers gave us one of the most fun 4WD drives of the trip, weaving through soft sand and dunes before suddenly emerging beside the reef. Five fingers is also reachable from Coral Bay Town which is a much easier track if you want to avoid the dunes.

Coral Bay & Warroora Coast

From Coral Bay, it’s only around two hours to Exmouth. If you have an extra night, Bullara Station is supposedly a fun stop along the way and gives you a completely different outback experience before returning to the coast (although they have a strict 2 night stay). As you approach Exmouth, make sure to take the short 15min detour to Charles Knife Canyon. The official hiking trail is permanently closed but there are still a few amazing viewpoints. 

Charles Knife Canyon
Charles Knife Canyon
Osprey Bay Campground
Osprey Bay Campground

Exmouth itself is a small town with a handful of good brunch and coffee spots and supermarkets, but the real reason to come here is on the opposite side of the peninsula: Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Marine Park. The park has a string of beautiful campgrounds running along the coast. Our favourite was Osprey Bay, especially if you manage to secure one of the sites overlooking the water (site 13 was superb). Kurrajong was another favourite, although honestly any site inside the park is worth grabbing during peak season.

Some of the best snorkelling is at Turquoise Bay, where you can drift gently along the reef with the current, and Oyster Stacks, where coral sits incredibly close to shore. Oyster Stacks is very shallow so best snorkelled around high tide. Snorkeling at Osprey Bay campground is definitely an underrated spot where you’re likely to spot a few turtles!

Yardie Creek Gorge
Yardie Creek Gorge
Turtle at Osprey Bay
Turtle at Osprey Bay

There are also some excellent hikes in Cape Range. Mandu Mandu Gorge is a 3km return trail that follows the creek bed before climbing onto the gorge rim, with views stretching across the range toward Ningaloo Reef. Further south, Yardie Creek Gorge has a 2km trail along the cliffs above the permanent creek. Keep looking at the rocky slopes for the threatened black-flanked rock-wallabies, and into the sky for ospreys and other birds of prey. We also saw huge numbers of bats hanging from trees around the creek, making Yardie one of the most wildlife-filled walks of the trip.

TIP: Cape Range campgrounds are some of the most popular on the entire route, so once you know your dates, these are among the first campsites we’d book. We were able to snatch last minute cancellations in peak high season up until a few days before our stay, so definitely keep your eyes open. Yardie Homestead is probably the next best alternative with some hot showers and decent facilities, but at 2x the price to sleep just outside the park. 

Swimming with Whale Sharks

A whale shark swim is one of the most memorable experiences you can have in Exmouth, with the most reliable season generally running from March through July. Tours are tightly managed and only licensed operators can run them, with small groups of usually no more than 10 swimmers around a whale shark at one time. Operators like Ningaloo Discovery, Three Islands Whale Shark Dive, Ocean Eco Adventures and Exmouth Dive & Whalesharks Ningaloo all offer fairly similar full-day trips, usually including a reef snorkel, spotter aircraft, lunch and several chances to swim if conditions allow. We wouldn’t overthink which company to choose, just pick the boat, date and schedule that suits you best, and book early if you’re travelling in peak season.

Whale Shark Exmouth
Whale Shark Exmouth
Whale Shark Exmouth
Whale Shark Exmouth

 

That said, whale shark tours are very expensive, so don’t feel bad if you decide to skip it. It’s an incredible experience, but Ningaloo is special because you can also snorkel straight from shore with turtles, rays, reef sharks and colourful coral for free 😉 Another great splurge, if you want to see the reef from a completely different perspective, is a scenic flight over Cape Range and Ningaloo. From above you really appreciate how close the reef sits to shore, and depending on the season you might spot whale sharks, humpbacks, manta rays, dolphins, dugongs and turtles. If you do one, we’d choose the longer 60-minute option so you actually spend time flying over the reef.

If you’re flying back from Exmouth, it’s about 25 minutes from Exmouth to Learmonth Airport, where you can return your one-way vehicle and fly back to Perth in around two hours. If you’re driving back instead, allow 2–3 days to return to Perth, stopping again at some of your favourite places along the way. You can also save a few stops from this itinerary for the return journey, which makes the drive back feel a lot less repetitive. If you have an extra week, consider turning the trip into a bigger loop by heading inland via Karijini National Park before making your way back south to Perth.