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Perth to Esperance

The perfect road trip on Western Australia's South Coast

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The perfect Perth to Esperance Roadtrip

Western Australia’s South Coast is one of the most beautiful regions in the country, a place where towering forests meet white-sand beaches, and granite headlands drop into crystal clear bays. This Perth to Esperance itinerary, follows a route that showcases the very best of the South West: Margaret River’s vineyards, the karri forests of Pemberton, Denmark’s calm coves, Albany’s wild cliffs, and finally, the dazzling beaches of Esperance. With roughly 2–3 weeks, you’ll have enough time to explore at a relaxed pace, enjoy some of the best campgrounds in Western Australia, and experience what makes this part of the country so special: wide-open spaces, endless coastline, and that easy-going, outdoorsy lifestyle that defines WA.

Best time to go: March–May and September–November, with mild weather, wildflowers, and fewer crowds. Summer (Dec–Feb) brings perfect beach conditions but is also the busiest season.

Trip length: Around 2,000 km loop, roughly 14 hours to Esperance along the coast, and 7–8 hours back inland.

The Route

Below you’ll find the map of our Perth to Esperance itinerary. Most travelers experience it by renting a campervan or a 4WD with a rooftop tent, giving them the freedom to stay wherever they happen to be. We recommend choosing a 4WD, as this is one of the few places in the world where you can drive along endless beaches, and many of the most stunning, secluded campsites are accessible only by 4WD. The route heads south from Perth to Fremantle and Busselton, before winding through Margaret River, Pemberton, Denmark, Albany, and Bremer Bay, and finally reaching Esperance and Cape Le Grand National Park. The return journey takes you inland via Hyden and Wave Rock, a scenic way to complete the loop and return to Perth.

Because where you camp is at least half the experience of a great road trip, we’re also putting together a full guide to our favorite campsites along the route (coming soon).

Perth

Perth is the sunniest capital of Australia and the ideal starting point for your Pert to Esperance Road trip. Spend your first day exploring the city center along the Swan River. A walk around Elizabeth Quay is a nice way to start, with the Bell Tower and the skyline reflecting in the water. Continue through the Supreme Court Gardens, Government House Gardens, St George’s Cathedral and Stirling Gardens, small parks full of palms and parrots that make the city feel surprisingly tropical. In the afternoon, visit Kings Park and Botanic Garden, one of the largest inner-city parks in the world. From the State War Memorial you’ll have the best view over Perth’s skyline and the river. Make sure to walk the Lotterywest Federation Walkway, a short elevated trail through the treetops of the botanic gardens. For lunch, Fraser’s Restaurant is a cosy, upscale spot for lunch, with a terrace overlooking the city. If you’re after something more casual, there’s also a kiosk right next door.

After exploring the city and its parks, head towards the coast to experience the easy-going rhythm that defines Perth. From Cottesloe to Scarborough, spend the day like the locals: surfing, swimming, grabbing an acai bowl or a coffee, and simply soaking up the sun. Order a pizza on the sand or take a seat at an oceanside restaurant like Longview Cottesloe, and watch the sun sink slowly into the Indian Ocean, you’ll see why Perth is said to have some of the most beautiful sunsets in Australia.

Fremantle

Just 30 minutes from Perth, Fremantle (or Freo, as the locals call it) feels like a world of its own. The streets are lined with old limestone buildings, cosy cafés and boutique shops that invite you to walk around without a plan. Start your day with coffee and brunch at Good Things Fremantle, one of our favorite spots in town. If you’re here on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday, make sure to stop by the Fremantle Markets, which are filled with local produce, handmade crafts and street performers, and perfectly captures the creative heart of the city. A lovely dinner option is Bread in Common, set in a converted warehouse. Enjoy a few sharing plates and freshly baked bread while soaking up the relaxed, social energy that makes Fremantle so special.

TIP: We recommend staying in Fremantle for your first few nights. It’s close to the beach, just a short train ride from Perth’s city center, and the ferry to Rottnest Island departs straight from the harbor.

Rottnest Island

A visit to Rottnest Island is a must when you’re in Perth, and it’s perfect for a day trip or an overnight stay. The ferry from Fremantle takes about 25 minutes, and as soon as you arrive, the island’s relaxed, car-free vibe makes you slow down instantly. The easiest way to explore is by bike — you can rent one at Pedal & Flipper or with your ferry ticket. Swing by Rottnest Bakery for a coffee and a pastry when you arrive, and keep your eyes peeled for quokkas, the island’s famously smiling little marsupials.

The best route to explore Rottnest Island is to ride counter-clockwise around the island and stop wherever feels right. Some of our favorite spots along the way are The Basin, for a swim; Parakeet Bay, for quiet and peaceful; Cape Vlamingh and Cathedral Rocks, for cliffs dramatically dropping into the ocean (you might even spot some seals). On the way back, pause at Mary Cove for a snorkel in the colorful shallow reefs, detour to Wadjemup Lighthouse for panoramic views and a coffee at Lexi’s on Rotto. Wrap up your visit with dinner at Isola Bar e Cibo or another waterside spot near the jetty, watching the sky turn pink over the bay.

Busselton

On your way down from Fremantle to Busselton, make sure to stop in Bunbury, a 2-hour drive from Fremantle. Bunbury is the perfect place to take a little break, stretch your legs, and treat yourself to a coffee and an açaí bowl at Bahlu Café. It’s also the last major town with big supermarkets, Kmart, Bunnings and plenty of other shops before the quieter south-west coast, so it’s worth stocking up everything you might need before heading into the more remote parts of WA.

From Bunbury, it’s just another 40 minutes to Busselton. The town is small, but its famous jetty is worth a visit. Stretching nearly 1.8 kilometers into the ocean, it’s the second-longest timber jetty in the world. You can walk all the way to the end for a small entry fee. During whale season (June to October), you might even spot humpback whales from the end of the jetty. If you’re there on the 1st, 3rd, or 5th Sunday of the month, stop by the Busselton Foreshore Markets. It’s a nice way to wander along the beachfront, check out local crafts, and pick up some fresh produce.

Cape Naturaliste & Dunsborough

The next morning, set off to explore the stunning coastline around Cape Naturaliste National Park. Start with the Cape Naturaliste Loop, a 3.4 km trail that takes you to the tip of the cape. The path has panoramic views of the rugged coastline and the Indian Ocean, and it’s easy enough to enjoy at a relaxed pace. After your walk, stop by Meelup Farmhouse for lunch. This laid-back restaurant, set on a leafy farm just outside Dunsborough, has a lovely setting and great locally inspired food. In the afternoon, go beach-hopping. From Meelup Beach, follow the easy 20-minute coastal path from bay to bay, passing Gannet Rock, Castle Rock, and finally Point Piquet. Every beach has clear blue water and soft white sand, but Point Piquet steals the show with its sheltered cove and natural swimming pool.

TIP: If you’re looking for a simple, scenic spot to spend the night, Windmills Beach is a true hidden gem. It’s free, tucked behind the dunes, and just a short drive from Dunsborough, super convenient. Don’t expect fancy amenities: there’s only a drop toilet and no showers or electricity. Spaces do fill up, so try to arrive early to secure a spot.

Margaret River Region

From Dunsborough, the road continues south into the Margaret River region, an area filled with rolling vineyards, boutique wineries and that unmistakably relaxed countryside atmosphere. You’ll find countless cellar doors to choose from, but names like Cherubino Wines, Amelia Park, Voyager Estate and Leeuwin Estate are always a safe bet. Apart from the wineries, there are also some beautiful natural spots along the way. Canal Rocks is a must-see, a dramatic stretch of coastline where the ocean has carved a narrow channel through giant granite boulders. Walk across the timber bridges for the best view, especially when waves crash through the gap. Just a little further, Injidup Natural Spa is another great stop. Here, the waves spill over smooth rocks into a natural pool that bubbles like a spa, the perfect place to cool off on a warm afternoon.

The coast around Yallingup, Injidup and Gracetown is a surfer’s paradise. Even if you’re not hitting the waves yourself, it’s worth stopping by Surfers Point in Prevelly to watch the action. For a casual lunch or a morning coffee, The White Elephant Café right on the beach is a great spot.

Cape to Cape Track & Hamelin Bay

The Cape to Cape Track is a famous coastal trail runs for about 135km, stretching all the way from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south. You don’t have to walk the full track to get a taste of it though, the one way 7.5km section between Conto Beach and Redgate Beach is one of the most beautiful, easy to follow, with endless views of the Indian Ocean. Keep an eye out for kangaroos hopping through the bushes and the occasional snake track in the sand. The walk ends at Redgate Beach, a wide bay that’s perfect for a refreshing swim if the conditions are calm.

A short drive further south brings you to Hamelin Bay, where you can often see large stingrays gliding through the shallows near the boat ramp (head left on the beach from the car park). If you got more time, make a detour to Cosy Corner Beach, Granny’s Pool, or catch the sunset at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet.

TIP: Conto Campground is a convenient place to stay in the Margaret River region, close to both the Cape to Cape Track and Margaret River town. It’s a popular spot and often fills up, so book ahead through Parks WA to secure your site.

Pemberton Southern Forests

Leaving the coast behind, the road from Margaret River to Pemberton takes you into the heart of Western Australia’s tall tree country. A lovely first stop is the Pemberton Pool, a calm forest lake where locals have been cooling off since the 1920s. If you’re travelling in summer, you’ll definitely want to take a refreshing dip here under the shade of the karri trees. Nearby you’ll find two of the region’s most famous climbing trees, the Bicentennial Tree and the Gloucester Tree. The Bicentennial Tree is still open for climbing, while the Gloucester Tree is currently closed due to structural issues.

From Pemberton, the drive to Walpole is beautiful, winding through tall karri and jarrah forests. Around 30 minutes into the drive (around the Cattle Trail Photo Point), watch for the sign to the Great Forest Trees Drive, an even more scenic detour. Turn left to follow this route through old-growth forest, it’s a 2WD dirt road right through the forest and you’ll end right back on the highway to Walpole. Near Walpole, the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk lets you walk 40 meters above the forest floor among ancient tingle trees. It’s a popular spot, so don’t expect to be alone. There’s an entry fee for the elevated walkway, but you can also take the free Bibbulmun Track section that runs underneath, where you’ll still walk among the same giant Tingle Trees, some with hollow trunks big enough to step inside.

Denmark

The drive from Walpole to Denmark takes about 50 minutes, passing through tall forests before opening out to the coast. The real reason to stop here is William Bay National Park. Start your morning at Greens Pool, a calm lagoon framed by huge granite boulders. The water is shallow and safe, perfect for a dip before the crowds arrive. From there, take the short coastal trail to Elephant Rocks, massive rounded boulders that look like a herd of elephants walking into the ocean. If you feel like exploring a bit more, descend to Elephant Cove, the bay beneath the rocks with soft white sand and crystal-clear water. On the eastern side, Madfish Bay and Waterfall Beach are much quieter and also worth visiting. William Bay is popular, so try to arrive early, you’ll have the best experience before too many people show up. Back in town, Denmark is perfect for a relaxed stroll. Stop by The Bakery Café for lunch and a great coffee, or just enjoy the slow, welcoming pace of this little coastal spot.

Tip: Denmark is part of the Great Southern Wine Region, a real hidden gem often overlooked in favor of Margaret River. Single File Wines, just outside town, is one of our favorites, gorgeous views over rolling hills and outstanding wines.

Albany

Albany is one of Western Australia’s oldest towns, founded in 1826—almost three years before Perth even existed. Today it’s a lively coastal town with a mix of heritage buildings, dramatic natural scenery, and a laid-back southern vibe. Like with most other towns on your roadtrip, the surrounding coast are the real highlight. Torndirrup National Park is a short drive from town and full of dramatic sights. Check out The Gap, a viewing platform over a 25-meter granite chasm where waves crash below, and Natural Bridge, a stone arch carved by the sea. For beaches, head to Little Beach in Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve—its white sand, clear water, and huge granite boulders make it perfect for a swim. Waterfall Beach, right next door, is smaller, quieter, and just as beautiful.

Back in Albany, the main street is the best area to explore, with historic buildings, the old church, cafés, and small boutiques. There aren’t any particularly nice campgrounds nearby, and the one in town is quite pricey, so consider taking a break from camping and spending a night in a guesthouse or hotel instead. Albany also has supermarkets and outdoor stores, handy for restocking before continuing your road trip.

Bremer Bay

From Albany, it’s about a two-hour drive to Bremer Bay, a quiet coastal town framed by crystal clear bays and rolling sand dunes. Bremer Bay is calm and simple, just a handful of cafés, wide beaches, and the quiet that comes with being far from anywhere. Blossoms Beach is a 4WD accessible stretch of white sand with incredibly clear water. Native Dog Beach and Little Boat Harbour are also worth visiting. These beaches give you a taste of what’s to come further east near Esperance: pure white sand, granite headlands, and endless shades of blue.

Between January and April, Bremer Bay becomes one of the world’s best spots to see orcas in the wild. The Bremer Canyon, a deep underwater valley just offshore, attracts hundreds of killer whales each summer. Bremer Bay Orca Experience runs daily trips during the season, taking about an hour by boat to the canyon. On the water, you might see orcas hunting, surfacing, or socializing, sometimes alongside sperm whales, pilot whales, dolphins, or even enormous sunfish. The tour lasts around eight hours, and the Southern Ocean can get rough, so don’t forget to take motion-sickness tablets if you’re prone.

Tip: There are no free campgrounds near town, so booking a spot at the Bremer Bay Caravan Park is your best bet. It’s well-located, and a comfortable base for a night or two before continuing east toward Esperance.

Esperance & Cape Le Grand National Park

From Bremer Bay, it’s about a four-hour drive to Esperance. After the long journey, you’ll probably want to sit down and grab some breakfast. Cloud Eleven Esperance is our favorite choice, with excellent coffee and fresh, local food. Right next door, Tide & Co is a boutique worth browsing, offering unique souvenirs and clothes with that relaxed Esperance vibe. Take some time to explore Museum Village, a collection of historic buildings and old chapels now hosting shops and galleries, and on Sundays, enjoy the Esperance Markets with fresh produce, handmade goods, and coffee stalls.

Before tackling the national park, take on the Great Ocean Drive, a 40-kilometer route that loops along the coastline. It’s a first taste of Esperance’s incredible beaches: Blue Haven Beach, a sheltered cove perfect for a swim, Twilight Beach with its bright water, and Observatory Lookout for panoramic views over the coast.

The real cherry on the cake of your road trip is Cape Le Grand National Park. You can enter via the inland road or, if you have a 4WD, drive along Cape Le Grand Beach all the way into the park. Lucky Bay is the most famous beach, and you probably expect to see kangaroos on the sand, but be warned that sightings are rare. A coffee stand, the Lucky Bean Café, is at Lucky Bay during the summer months, located on the east end of the beach. The first part of Lucky Bay is firm enough for a 2WD, so you can park on the sand and enjoy the view. Wharton Beach is a bit further from the main beaches but absolutely worth visiting, it’s quieter and incredibly beautiful. Hellfire Bay and Thistle Cove are car-free; Hellfire Bay is more accessible but has more people, while Thistle Cove is more peaceful with fewer tourists. In terms of hiking, Frenchman’s Peak is a short but steep trail that rewards you with sweeping views of the coastline, especially stunning at sunset when the light turns golden over the water.

Tip: Camping in the park is popular, and Le Grand Beach and Lucky Bay campgrounds book out months in advance, so plan ahead. If you don’t have a reservation, Dunns Eco Park, just 15 minutes from the park entrance offers a good alternative (with the benefit of a hot shower and kitchen facilities)

Back to Perth via Hyden

From Esperance, it’s about a 7.5 hours drive back to Perth, cutting straight through Western Australia’s golden wheatbelt. Around the halfway mark lies Hyden, a small outback town famous for Wave Rock (a 2.7-billion-year old granite formation shaped like a giant frozen wave), rising 15 meters high and stretching 110 meters across. There’s not much else in Hyden, but it’s a fitting last stop to round off your Perth to Esperance road trip.

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